The archipelago has only one small, upscale dive resort, and so its reefs are little used; though many resorts on Utila, Roatan and Guanaja like to make occasional day trips to these tropical island jewels. The Cayos Cochinos reef system is particularly prized for its lush macro life, the Caribbean's most diverse.

Budget travelers often make trips out to these islands by way of an early morning boat from the mainland Garifuna village of Nueva Armenia, an hour's drive east of La Ceiba. They stay in small huts or in hammocks on tiny Chachaguate Key where there is a semi-permanent Garifuna fishing settlement.

Activities on these do-it-yourself islands include hiking around the two main islands and great snorkeling. On the big island, there is a tall lighthouse on the summit. You can ask at the dive resort to borrow the key, hike for 30 minutes to the top of the ridge, and climb up a vertical ladder on the inside of the metal structure, emerging at the wind-buffeted upper platform for a spectacular 360 degree view out over these idyllic isles. Another great day trip is a walk all the way around the second largest island, although there are some rocky sections on the southwest side that need to be negotiated. The snorkeling and scenery on the north side of the island is spectacular.